The English lady Barbara was a lovely person who was retired
and had been living in Gozo for many years. She was going to Malta for a
couple of weeks to live in a flat a friend of hers had offered her. While she
was waiting for her bus, she stopped us and started chatting with us. We were
only too happy to chat because....well, we usually are.
While she was telling us about public transport and which
ferry to take back to Malta,
she casually mentioned that there is a ferry that goes from Malta to Sicily
(an Island of Italy). It takes 90 minutes to get there
and if one wants, they can take a ferry back at night after spending the day in
Sicily. I
have never been to Italy
and this sort of thing really appeals to me. Roberta could see the mad gleam in
my eye and she immediately put a stop to it.
“Sunny! No! We don’t have time.” Those were her exact words.
And I responded “Roberta, this is my bridge this time!”
Ok, the bridge, that was from our Copenhag
en trip. That’s a long story in
itself but in short, there is a bridge that goes from
Copenhagen
in
Denmark to
Malmo in
Sweden.
Half an hour by train and you are in a different country. Roberta told me about
it and I went crazy for it. That created lots of debate between us but
ultimately we took the train that goes over that bridge. Both of us enjoyed it
but Roberta had to do a lot of “Beautiful Mind” type calculations to make that
fit in our plans. The
Copenhagen
trip was only two days. Later, in the lockdown days we were both glad we had
been to
Sweden
even if for a few hours before all travel got stopped.
But this was different. We really didn’t have enough time
even to see
Malta properly and
Sicily would
be a big complication but come on, imagine one ferry, a ninety minute ride, and
you are in a different country! I grew up in the central city of
Delhi which is completely landlocked and even if you
travel for four hours you would still be in
India.
Europe
just drives me crazy that way.
Even after we left Barbara, we talked about it a little bit.
I didn’t tell Roberta this because I like pulling her leg but I dropped that
idea very quickly after I did some research on it and found that while the trip
is all that Barbara indicated, in the current climate Sicily had more
formalities and processes for Covid-19 precautions. I didn’t want to go through
that hassle and I also knew we were short on time.
That afternoon, we went back to the Mgarr harbour and took a
Hop-On-Hop-Off tour bus for Gozo sightseeing. Because it was only for the
afternoon, the nice lady selling the tickets only charged us €10 each. She did
want it in cash though. There was an ATM there so cash was no problem. I saw a
lot of free ATMs in Malta
that didn’t charge us for withdrawals and I was using my Monzo card so I didn’t
have to worry about currency conversation rates or non-sterling transaction
charges. Monzo is fantastic if you travel.

If I am completely honest, the HOHO bus was a bit of a
snoozefest. Later we agreed that it was kind of a slow way to go sightseeing. I
don’t have any data for a comparison that was just a feeling. One big problem
is that although you can see a lot from the open deck of the bus, you can’t
actually take any good pictures. I have tried that before in Glasgow and it didn’t really work. Here are a
couple of examples of photos taken from the moving bus in Gozo, you can decide
for yourself if they are any good.
We drove through Victoria and passed the remnants of a big, historical viaduct. Then we left
the bus at Dwejra (pronounced: dwayraa). This was the site of the old Azure
Window. I didn’t know about the Azure Window until Roberta told me before the
trip. It was on her list of things to see and when I read about it, I was
fascinated as well.
The Azure Window was a natural rock formation that looked
like a window (hence the name) which was a unique natural feature. I am using
past tense because unfortunately the window collapsed in 2017 in a storm. Now
it’s a site for people to take photos of the hillside that remains while braver
souls go scuba diving there to look at the ruins of the window in the water. Nevertheless,
it was a nice spot, very pretty.

After we were done taking the photos we had to wait for the
next HOHO bus to pick us up. In the meantime, we had ice creams, well, I had a
milkshake. It was ok. The HOHO bus in Gozo has two routes - purple and blue.
The funny thing is where they meet, in Victoria,
nothing changes. You stay on the same bus and it starts driving on the Blue
route. Yep. It must make sense to somebody somewhere.
We stopped at a big church, Ta’Pinu, just for 10 minutes to take photos. Then back to Victoria.
Victoria
is the capital of Gozo, a small city. I can’t say whether it’s great or not
great because, well, it’s just a city. It has the famous Citadella (or Citadel,
if you wanna be English about it.) Roberta wanted to get there but she was not
ready for the bus to become Blue route and carry on before we could get off. We
left that behind and stayed with the bus as far as Marsalforn (pronounced:
Marsaal-forn) which is a seafront. I don’t want to be disparaging about it but
it was just a seafront. There were some kids learning to dive there so it was
more for doing than looking. Actually, I changed my mind the next day but we
will get to that.
From Marsalforn, we took a Bolt taxi to Wied-il-Mielah (I am
leaving out accents in my laziness) which is another natural window like the Azure
Window except that it’s still standing. Well, we tried to get there. Remember I
told you there’s always work going on everywhere in Malta? That’s what happened to us
here. Our taxi could not take us to the window because the road was blocked.
The taxi driver dumped us there saying it was just a ten minutes walk from
there.
We didn’t have any choice except to get out but neither of
us is the doe-eyed innocent bumpkin that we used to be. Roberta checked on
Google Maps and it was showing 23 minutes to walk down. We started walking down
and it was all downhill. But before going much further we asked the road
workers how far down was the window. Have I mentioned that the Maltese people
were really easy to talk to? You could ask directions from anybody, you could
chat with anybody, you could ask stupid questions, they were always friendly
and responsive. One of the best things that I liked about Malta was the
people.
One of the road workers told us that it was straight down on
that road about 15 minutes walk. His colleague said it was more like 30
minutes. We raised this point with the first guy.
“Yess...fifteen minutes, thirty minutes, like that.” He
said.
What? There’s a huge different between 15 and 30. We talked
about it. Roberta raised the point that going down was all downhill but a 30
minute walk uphill to come back? We had been doing a lot of walking, climbing
etc. all day today so that was not a good prospect. My objection was that the
light was already fading. In 30 minutes it would fade even more. I had seen the
photos of the window, it needed good light for photography. You will see what I
mean. But given our tour plan, if we didn’t go to see the window today, we
wouldn’t be able to fit it in our itinerary again because we were leaving Gozo
the next day at noon.
Have you heard the expression “He who fights and runs away,
lives to fight another day.”?
Retreating gracefully, we walked back to the road closure
and called a taxi. And that taxi changed the course of history! Ok, I am
exaggerating so you would read the next post but honestly, that taxi ride did
have a big impact on our Gozo trip the next day.